Table of Contents
Table of Contents
Introduction
When planning our month-long trip around Thailand, there were a few destinations that were always going to make the itinerary. One of those was Phi Phi and Maya Bay. Like many travelers, I had seen the photographs for years. The towering limestone cliffs, the crystal-clear water, and the famous beach made famous by movies had been sitting on my travel bucket list for a very long time.
The timing of our visit made it even more special. This trip took place in 2022, shortly after many COVID restrictions had been lifted. Maya Bay had also only recently reopened following its long closure and environmental restoration project. It felt like we were arriving at a unique moment when tourism was beginning to return, but the overwhelming crowds that once filled the area had not yet completely returned.

After spending time in Krabi, we planned to head straight to Phi Phi Island. Expectations were high. Every travel blog seemed to describe paradise, but I have learned over the years that reality and Instagram often tell very different stories. I was excited to see whether Phi Phi and Maya Bay could actually live up to the hype.
My first impression was surprisingly positive. The scenery approaching the island was stunning, the atmosphere felt relaxed, and despite being a major tourist destination, it still retained a certain charm. The towering cliffs surrounding the island immediately reminded me why so many people travel halfway across the world to experience this corner of Thailand.
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Arrival and Preparation
Getting from Krabi to Phi Phi was surprisingly easy. We managed to secure ferry tickets without much difficulty and the price was reasonable enough that neither of us thought twice about booking them. I cannot remember the exact cost now, but it certainly did not feel expensive.
The ferry journey took somewhere between an hour and a half and two hours. Along the route, we were treated to some fantastic coastal views. One of the more memorable moments came when the ferry stopped near Railay Beach to collect additional passengers. Watching people transfer from a small boat onto a much larger ferry while luggage was being passed between vessels was slightly nerve-racking. One wrong step and someone could have started their holiday in a very unfortunate way.

Fortunately, the crossing itself was smooth. We encountered a brief burst of rain during the trip, but the ferry was large enough that it never became a concern. Everyone simply carried on enjoying the journey.
Upon arrival in Phi Phi, one thing immediately stood out. There are no cars and no traditional taxis. The island operates very differently from most tourist destinations. Instead, you walk everywhere. One of the most unique services I noticed involved local workers transporting luggage using wheelbarrows.
At first, it seemed unusual, but after spending a few minutes in the heat and humidity, it made complete sense. Whether arranged by your hotel or hired independently, these workers carry heavy luggage through the island’s pathways under intense tropical conditions. They absolutely deserve a generous tip.

Before arriving, I expected Phi Phi to be busy, and it certainly was. However, because tourism was still recovering, it felt manageable. The atmosphere was lively without being overwhelming.
Planning for Maya Bay was actually one of the main reasons we visited. We knew we wanted to avoid crowds and maximize our photography opportunities. Instead of joining one of the standard tours, we visited a local travel agent and asked if private early-morning trips were possible.

One thing I quickly learned throughout Thailand was how welcoming and helpful people are. The travel agent listened to exactly what we wanted and arranged an early private longtail boat experience. It cost around 2,000 baht per person, which was more than a standard tour, but for us it was worth every baht.
Phi Phi and Maya Bay: First Impressions
Before our Maya Bay adventure, we spent time exploring Phi Phi Island itself.
We stayed at ChaoKoh Phi Phi Hotel & Resort, located roughly ten minutes from the ferry pier. Although our room was not ready when we arrived, the staff happily stored our luggage, giving us an excuse to begin exploring immediately.
Walking through Phi Phi for the first time was an experience in itself. Small shops lined the pathways selling clothes, souvenirs, magnets, beach gear, and all the usual travel essentials. Despite being a relatively small island, there was always something happening.

The beaches immediately caught my attention. The water was exactly what people imagine when they think of Thailand. Clear turquoise water stretched out in front of dramatic limestone cliffs. Even on busier sections of the island, it was difficult not to stop and appreciate the scenery.
As an Irish traveler, it probably comes as no surprise that I eventually discovered The Dubliner Irish Pub. The staff were incredibly friendly and welcoming. It looked like a fantastic place for a party, especially considering we were there around St. Patrick’s Day. However, after nearly a month of traveling and working remotely, I was far more interested in a quiet drink than a late-night celebration.
Phi Phi also had plenty of Thai restaurants, beach bars, and cafรฉs. One amusing discovery was an actual GoPro store. Given how popular snorkeling, diving, and Maya Bay tours are, I suppose it makes perfect sense. In fact, we ended up purchasing some accessories ourselves.
Exploring Phi Phi Before Maya Bay
One recommendation I would make to anyone visiting Phi Phi and Maya Bay is to visit the famous viewpoint.
We learned about it from locals shortly after arriving and decided to tackle the climb the same day.

The walk is not particularly long, but the combination of steep steps, tropical humidity, and intense heat makes it more challenging than many people expect. By the time we reached the top, we were sweating heavily.
The effort was completely justified.
The viewpoint provides one of the most iconic views in Thailand. Looking down over the narrow strip of land connecting both sides of Phi Phi creates a picture-perfect panorama. It is easy to understand why photographers love this location.

Sunset from the viewpoint was equally impressive. As the light softened and the islands began glowing in warm golden colours, it became one of my favourite moments on the entire trip.
The funny part is that we managed all of this on our first day. Phi Phi Island may be famous, but it is also surprisingly compact.
My Phi Phi and Maya Bay Early Morning Tour
This is where things became interesting.
After spending time at the Irish pub, I somehow managed to stay awake until around 4 AM. Unfortunately, our private longtail boat was scheduled to depart at 6 AM.
That left approximately two hours of sleep.

Hungover, exhausted, and questioning my life choices, I somehow dragged myself out of bed and made my way to the boat.
Thankfully, the sea was calm.
As the longtail boat left Phi Phi behind, reality finally started sinking in. After two years of planning, delays caused by COVID, and endless travel restrictions, we were finally heading toward Maya Bay.
The journey took around forty minutes.

Our first stop was Pi Leh Lagoon.
This place alone could justify a trip to Phi Phi. The lagoon featured incredibly clear shallow water surrounded by towering limestone cliffs. The colours almost looked edited, even though they were completely natural.
There was only one other boat present.

As luck would have it, it belonged to a photographer we had met the previous evening. We jokingly exchanged comments about who was ruining whose photographs and who had arrived first. Thankfully, it was all good fun.
The peaceful atmosphere at Pi Leh Lagoon was something that would have been impossible during peak tourism years.
Eventually, we continued around the island toward Maya Bay.

One thing many visitors do not realize is that you no longer arrive directly on the famous beach. Instead, boats approach from the rear of the island where visitors disembark onto a floating dock.
From there, elevated wooden pathways guide visitors through protected areas toward the beach.
Personally, I fully support these conservation efforts.

The pathway system helps protect the environment while still allowing people to experience one of Thailand’s most beautiful locations.
The entrance fee was around 40 baht at the time.
Then came the moment we had been waiting for.
Why Phi Phi and Maya Bay Are Worth Visiting
Walking onto Maya Bay for the first time was unforgettable.
The beach was every bit as beautiful as I had hoped.
The sand was soft and bright, the water looked almost unreal, and the cliffs surrounding the bay created a natural amphitheatre unlike anything I had seen before.

Most importantly, there were only a handful of people present.
That alone transformed the experience.
Instead of fighting through crowds or struggling to take photographs, we could simply enjoy the location. We walked the length of the beach multiple times, stopping frequently to admire the scenery and take photographs.
So, is Phi Phi and Maya Bay worth visiting?
For me, absolutely yes.

The restoration work had clearly paid off. Everything looked clean, well-maintained, and protected. The area felt respected rather than exploited.
After spending time on the beach, we returned to our boat. The captain then moved around to the front side of Maya Bay where we stopped for snorkeling.
At least that was the plan.
I quickly discovered that my brain and lungs were not entirely convinced about breathing underwater. While everyone else seemed comfortable, I spent most of the time awkwardly attempting to master basic snorkeling techniques.
Even so, it was fun to try.

Soon it was time to return.
On the journey back toward Phi Phi, we passed numerous boats heading toward Maya Bay. The crowds were clearly beginning to build.
That confirmed we had made the right decision by leaving early.
Our boat captain had been fantastic throughout the trip. The early start, local knowledge, and relaxed pace made the entire experience far better than joining a large group tour.

Back on Phi Phi Island, we returned to our room for some much-needed recovery before spending the evening exploring more beaches, beach bars, and sunset viewpoints.
Watching the sunset from Loh Dalum Beach with a drink in hand felt like the perfect ending to an incredible day.
Hotels in the Area
Accommodation around Phi Phi and Maya Bay caters to almost every type of traveler.
For luxury travelers, SAii Phi Phi Island Village stands out thanks to its beautiful beachfront setting and peaceful atmosphere. Zeavola Resort offers a more exclusive and boutique experience, ideal for couples seeking privacy. Phi Phi CoCo Beach Resort combines comfort with a fantastic location close enough to the action while still feeling relaxing.

For mid-range travelers, ChaoKoh Phi Phi Hotel & Resort is an excellent choice and the one I personally experienced. Phi Phi Harbour View Hotel provides modern facilities near the main areas of town, while Phi Phi Banyan Villa remains popular for its balance of comfort, convenience, and value.
Budget travelers have plenty of options as well. PP Charlie Beach Resort offers affordable accommodation close to the beach. Ibiza House appeals to younger travelers looking for a social atmosphere. Blanco Beach Bar Hostel remains a favourite among backpackers wanting to stay close to nightlife and island activities.
Choosing accommodation ultimately depends on whether you prioritize nightlife, relaxation, photography, or easy access to boat tours.
Highlights and Standout Moments
The biggest highlight was undoubtedly seeing Maya Bay with very few people present. It felt like witnessing a famous landmark during a brief window of calm before the crowds returned.
Pi Leh Lagoon was another standout location. The combination of emerald water and towering cliffs created some of the most impressive scenery I saw anywhere in Thailand.

The Phi Phi viewpoint deserves special mention. While the climb can be tiring, the panoramic views are spectacular and offer some of the best photography opportunities on the island.
Walking through the small streets of Phi Phi also created memorable moments. The lack of vehicles gives the island a unique atmosphere that feels very different from many other tourist destinations.
Sunset at Loh Dalum Beach remains one of my favourite memories. There was something relaxing about simply sitting by the water after a long day of exploring and watching the sky slowly change colours.
Honest Review
Phi Phi and Maya Bay exceeded my expectations.
The scenery is genuinely world-class. The beaches are beautiful, the water is stunning, and the limestone cliffs create landscapes that feel almost unreal.
The biggest advantage during my visit was timing. Arriving shortly after reopening meant fewer crowds than visitors experience today.
However, there are some downsides.

Phi Phi can become very busy, especially during peak season. Accommodation prices can rise significantly, and popular areas become crowded during the afternoon.
The tropical heat can also be exhausting. Simple walks sometimes feel much longer than expected.
Sleep quality depends heavily on your accommodation choice. Areas near nightlife can remain noisy late into the evening.
Transport around the island is easy because everything is walkable, but carrying luggage can be uncomfortable in the heat.

If I were doing the trip again, I would still book an early-morning private boat. It provided a completely different experience compared to arriving with larger tour groups.
Phi Phi and Maya Bay are best suited to travelers who enjoy beaches, photography, island scenery, boat trips, and relaxed exploration. Families, couples, solo travelers, and photographers can all find something to enjoy here.
Phi Phi and Maya Bay FAQ
What is the best time to visit Phi Phi and Maya Bay?
The best time to visit Phi Phi and Maya Bay is generally between November and April when weather conditions are drier and sea conditions are calmer. Early morning visits provide the best experience and fewer crowds.
Is Phi Phi and Maya Bay expensive?
Costs vary depending on accommodation and tours. Budget travelers can visit relatively affordably, while luxury resorts and private boat tours increase overall expenses. Food and local transport remain reasonably priced compared to many international destinations.
How do you get to Phi Phi and Maya Bay?
Most visitors arrive by ferry from Krabi or Phuket. Once on Phi Phi Island, Maya Bay is typically reached via longtail boat or speedboat tour.
Is Phi Phi and Maya Bay safe?
I found the area very safe. Standard travel precautions apply, but tourism infrastructure is well developed and locals are generally friendly and helpful.
Is Phi Phi difficult to walk around?
Most of Phi Phi is easily walkable. The only physically demanding area is the viewpoint climb, especially during hot weather.
Where should I stay when visiting Phi Phi and Maya Bay?
The best accommodation depends on your priorities. Staying near the centre offers convenience, while more remote resorts provide greater peace and privacy.
Is Phi Phi and Maya Bay good for photography?
Absolutely. Between the viewpoint, Maya Bay, Pi Leh Lagoon, beaches, sunsets, and longtail boats, photographers will find endless opportunities.
What is the weather like at Phi Phi and Maya Bay?
The climate is tropical throughout the year. Expect warm temperatures, high humidity, and occasional rain showers depending on the season.
Is Phi Phi and Maya Bay suitable for solo travelers?
Yes. The island is popular with solo travelers thanks to its social atmosphere, easy transportation, accommodation choices, and wide range of activities.
Final Thoughts
Looking back, Phi Phi and Maya Bay remain one of my favourite experiences from our month in Thailand.
Maybe part of that was timing. Visiting shortly after reopening gave us a glimpse of these famous locations before tourism fully returned. Maybe it was the private longtail boat, the incredible scenery, or simply finally achieving a travel goal that had been delayed for two years.
Whatever the reason, I left feeling that Phi Phi and Maya Bay absolutely deserved their reputation.
Are they worth visiting?
For me, the answer is an easy yes.
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