Cambodia Travel: How One Country Went From My Least Favourite Trip To One Of My Most Anticipated Returns

Introduction

Cambodia is one of those countries that completely changed my opinion over time.

In fact, if you had asked me after my first visit in 2018 whether I would ever return, the answer would probably have been no.

Fast forward to 2024 and not only had I returned, but I left planning another trip in 2026.

That is quite a turnaround.

Travel is funny like that. Sometimes a destination catches you at the wrong moment. Sometimes you arrive tired, frustrated, sick, or simply unlucky. Other times you return years later and discover a completely different place.

That was exactly my experience with Cambodia.

My first trip left me with mixed feelings. My second trip left me wondering why I had stayed away for so long.

Looking back now, I honestly think Cambodia deserves a second chance from many travellers who may have visited years ago and walked away with a less than perfect impression.

The country I experienced in 2024 felt dramatically different from the Cambodia I remembered from 2018.

Why Cambodia Travel Surprised Me

One thing I have learned after years of travelling is that countries evolve.

Roads improve.

Cities expand.

Infrastructure develops.

Tourism matures.

Sometimes the changes happen so gradually that locals barely notice them. Visitors returning after several years, however, often see those changes immediately.

Cambodia was one of the most dramatic examples of this I have personally experienced.

My two visits felt like I was travelling to different countries.

The temples were still there.

The culture was still there.

The friendly people were still there.

Yet the overall travel experience had improved beyond anything I expected.

Cambodia Travel In 2018

My first introduction to Cambodia was not ideal.

Arriving in Phnom Penh, I was already struggling. My stomach had decided it was not particularly happy with me, and that immediately affects how you view a destination.

When you feel sick, everything seems worse.

The weather feels hotter.

The streets feel busier.

The noise feels louder.

Even small inconveniences become major frustrations.

After Phnom Penh, I took the long journey towards Siem Reap.

If memory serves correctly, it took around ten hours on a slow bus journey. By the time we finally arrived, I was exhausted and ready to get to my accommodation.

That was where my first negative impression really started.

The tuk tuk ride was included as part of the bus package. I was perfectly willing to give the driver a tip for helping out. However, the situation quickly became awkward when the driver refused to move until payment was made upfront.

Whether it was a misunderstanding or simply how things worked at the time, it left a sour taste in my mouth.

Unfortunately, first impressions matter.

The tuk tuk drivers generally felt far more aggressive during that trip. It often felt like every interaction came with pressure attached.

You couldn’t walk very far without someone trying to sell you something, offer a ride, or push you towards a business.

I understand that tourism is a major source of income and people are trying to earn a living.

Still, the constant pressure became tiring.

Thankfully, there was one thing that completely saved the trip.

Angkor Wat.

Had it not been for the incredible temple complex in Siem Reap, I genuinely do not think Cambodia would have made my future travel list.

The temples were simply too impressive to ignore.

Angkor Wat Was Worth Every Frustration

Even during my less enjoyable 2018 visit, Angkor Wat stood out as one of the greatest travel experiences I had ever had.

The scale was astonishing.

The history was fascinating.

The atmosphere was unforgettable.

I actually arrived not fully understanding how large the archaeological park really was.

Like many people, I assumed Angkor Wat was basically one temple.

Instead, I discovered an enormous collection of temples, ruins, ancient walls, hidden corners, and jungle-covered structures.

It was one of those rare attractions that genuinely exceeded expectations.

That experience stayed with me.

Years later, it became one of the main reasons I decided to give Cambodia another chance.

Cambodia Travel In 2024

Returning in 2024 felt completely different from the moment I landed.

This time I arrived by air.

The airport experience was smooth, modern, and surprisingly efficient.

The introduction of QR code systems for visa and arrival procedures made everything straightforward.

Instead of dealing with paperwork and confusion, the process felt organised and stress-free.

That positive first impression continued almost immediately.

My Grab driver from the airport was one of the friendliest drivers I encountered anywhere during the trip.

He was helpful without being pushy.

He suggested places to visit.

He pointed out local attractions.

He answered questions.

Most importantly, he never once tried to pressure me into visiting a cousin’s tailor shop, jewellery store, or souvenir business.

Anyone who has travelled extensively around parts of Asia will know exactly what I mean.

The entire experience felt relaxed.

That was the first moment I realised Cambodia had changed.

Phnom Penh Felt Like A Different City

One of the biggest surprises during my return was Phnom Penh.

The city felt cleaner.

The streets felt safer.

The atmosphere felt calmer.

Back in 2018, I remember hearing plenty of warnings about the riverside area after dark.

In 2024, I found myself walking along a well-lit promenade packed with families, couples, children, elderly residents, and tourists.

People were exercising.

Children were playing.

Street vendors were operating.

The entire area felt welcoming.

It genuinely felt like a city investing in itself.

For photographers, there were significantly more opportunities too.

There were public spaces designed for people to gather, relax, and take photos.

Some were clearly created with social media in mind, but honestly, there is nothing wrong with that.

If people enjoy taking photos and sharing their travels, cities might as well embrace it.

The Tuk Tuk Driver Who Won A Customer Instantly

One of my favourite memories from the entire trip involved a tuk tuk driver.

Now, normally when someone approaches me with a sales pitch, I politely decline.

That day was no different.

He asked where I was from.

I told him Ireland.

Without missing a beat, he looked at me and said:

“Conas atá tú?”

For anyone unfamiliar with Irish, that means “How are you?” in Gaelic.

I nearly fell over laughing.

Of all the languages in the world, hearing Irish spoken by a tuk tuk driver in Cambodia was the last thing I expected.

I immediately hired him.

Honestly, he deserved the business.

His effort alone earned the sale.

The funniest part was that it turned out to be an excellent tour.

We explored different parts of the city, crossed over to the island area, and saw places I probably would not have visited otherwise.

Both of us walked away happy.

That interaction perfectly summed up my 2024 experience.

Friendly.

Relaxed.

Genuine.

Returning To Siem Reap

Despite enjoying Phnom Penh far more than expected, I still had concerns about returning to Siem Reap.

My memories from 2018 had not completely disappeared.

I still remembered arriving after a long bus journey and feeling overwhelmed by the crowd of drivers competing aggressively for customers.

Part of me expected the same experience.

Then our bus arrived.

We stepped off.

And nothing happened.

No crowd.

No shouting.

No chaos.

No aggressive competition.

The area around the bus station looked completely different.

The roads appeared newly developed.

The pathways looked modern.

Everything felt cleaner.

For a brief moment, it almost felt too quiet.

Then a single tuk tuk driver slowly walked over.

With the most relaxed approach imaginable, he simply asked:

“Tuk tuk?”

That was it.

No pressure.

No sales pitch.

No insistence.

Just a polite question.

I actually burst out laughing because the contrast with my memory was so dramatic.

The poor guy probably thought I was crazy.

He ended up driving us into town and was one of the nicest drivers I met during the entire trip.

I tipped him five dollars simply because he was so pleasant and professional.

His reaction suggested that kindness still goes a long way.

Siem Reap Continues To Improve

The changes around Siem Reap extended far beyond transportation.

The city itself looked fantastic.

Roads appeared newly paved.

Footpaths were modern.

Public spaces felt cleaner and more organised.

It honestly looked like significant investment had taken place over recent years.

Even the infrastructure surrounding Angkor Wat had improved.

Parking areas were better organised.

Roads were smoother.

Visitor facilities were more developed.

What impressed me most was that they managed these improvements without damaging the historical atmosphere.

The parking areas were positioned further away from the temples.

Visitors still needed to walk.

The ancient setting remained intact.

Modern convenience had been added without destroying the experience.

That balance is not always easy to achieve.

Cambodia seems to have handled it well.

Is Cambodia Travel Worth It?

Without hesitation, yes.

Cambodia today offers far more than many people realise.

Of course, Angkor Wat remains the headline attraction.

It should.

It is one of the greatest historical sites on Earth.

However, Cambodia is no longer simply a country you visit for the temples.

Phnom Penh has developed dramatically.

Siem Reap continues to evolve.

Infrastructure keeps improving.

The tourism experience feels far smoother than it did during my first visit.

Most importantly, the people remain one of Cambodia’s greatest strengths.

Friendly interactions were a constant theme throughout my 2024 trip.

Not forced.

Not scripted.

Just genuine encounters with people going about their daily lives.

Honest Review Of Cambodia

Every destination has positives and negatives.

Cambodia is no exception.

The heat can be intense.

Traffic still exists.

Some tourist areas remain busy.

Infrastructure, while improved, is still developing in some regions.

However, the positives massively outweigh the negatives.

The country offers incredible value.

The food is excellent.

The people are friendly.

The history is fascinating.

Photography opportunities are everywhere.

Accommodation standards continue to improve.

Transport options are becoming increasingly convenient.

Most importantly, Cambodia feels like a country moving in the right direction.

Cambodia Travel FAQ

Is Cambodia Safe For Tourists?

In my experience, Cambodia felt considerably safer during my 2024 visit than it did during my first trip in 2018. As with any destination, common sense is important, but I felt comfortable exploring both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

What Is The Best Time To Visit Cambodia?

The cooler dry season between November and February is generally considered the best time to visit Cambodia. This period offers more comfortable temperatures for sightseeing and exploring Angkor Wat.

How Many Days Should You Spend In Cambodia?

A week allows you to see the highlights, but two weeks provides a much more relaxed experience. Cambodia has far more to offer than many visitors initially realise.

Is Cambodia Expensive?

Compared with many Western countries, Cambodia remains affordable. Accommodation, transport, and food can offer excellent value for money.

Should You Visit Cambodia More Than Once?

Absolutely. My own experience proves that destinations can change dramatically over time. Cambodia in 2024 felt completely different from the Cambodia I experienced in 2018.